 |

|
 |
| Dr Roger
Bilham |
Me
filming on road to Muzaffarabad |
Devastation
in Balakot |
2005
was a particularly tumultuous year for the earth in terms of natural
disasters. Channel 4 commissioned a two hour special and I was asked to
document the aftermath of the Pakistan
earthquake.
I
was frankly nervous about visiting northern Pakistan
at the foot of the Himalayan region. I’d heard and read stories about
bandits in Kashmir and the Hindu Kush, trouble on the border with
Afghanistan and India, altogether an unsafe and dangerous place to be.
The
prospect of visiting a region which was on its knees and in a state of
desperation raised concerns for my own safety. In a stroke of good fortune
I interviewed Maqsood Sheikh in
London
days before my planned departure who had witnessed the actual earthquake
as it struck and destroyed his home town of Bagh
in eastern Pakistan.
He
turned out to be an influential patron of the region and he kindly offered
to protect my sound recordist, Geoff Price, and I while we were there. And
boy was he true to his word.
We
were collected by his men at the airport and they didn’t let us out of
their sight the entire trip. They slept in the house our new friend lent
us in Islamabad. They drove us in what must have been the best 4x4 in the country and
followed in another car.
That
kind of protection which involves situations where you are really glad of
local ex-army Special Forces protection was literally a lifesaver. I’ll
never forget the hungry, desperate faces which loomed from nowhere every
time we stopped, even 8,000 feet up in the mountains at 2.00 in the
morning in driving rain.
The
region was in absolute chaos, hardly a single building was still standing
and nothing was working. The desperation was heart-rending. Roads
disappeared without warning where the land had fallen away or been hit by
a boulder the size of a truck.
 |

|
 |
|
The
Team above Bagh |
Take-off
in a Chinook |
Me
shooting the fault line |
Our
companion and expert on the trip was Englishman Dr Roger Bilham, a
geologist from Colorado
University. His specialist subject is the Himalayan fault which is on a tectonic
plate which runs all the way down to Karachi
in the south.
Roger
was dropping off seismic instruments along the fault to measure shifts in
the rock and seismic activity. He’d detected a series of major shifts in
the six months prior to the quake but such is the science and worries of
false alarm involved in making predictions about major events, it isn’t
until there is a racing certainty of something happening can you press the
panic button. And that is still only a certainty usually only minutes or
seconds before an earthquake.
Because
the area the earthquake hit is so mountainous and remote it was hard to
ascertain the exact numbers killed but it is believed to be around 75,000
including 17,000 schoolchildren.
Sadly,
because of the remoteness of the area and the clandestine activities of
some parties in that region of the world, the effect of the earthquake
vanished off the world’s radar astonishingly quickly.
The
sights we saw were some of the worst I’ve ever witnessed and the
experience haunts me now. The towns of Muzaffarabad, Balakot and Bagh were
flattened and thousands of bodies were still buried deep under the rubble.
 |

|
 |
| The new
Himalayan fault line |
The
roof collapsed on this school |
A
beautiful Pakistani child |
Where
consignments of clothing and shoes had been dropped by the US Army and the
Red Cross, most of the clothes were still scattered across acres of
ground, unwanted, unusable, discarded. That struck me as odd, but I
imagine people were looking for warm clothing and blankets and the rest
would be too much to carry on your back.
The
US Army on a supply drop flew Roger and I in a Chinook helicopter down the
fault line along their mercy route and we could see the scar the
earthquake had made through the mountains for hundreds of miles. Millions
of tons of top soil had slid away revealing fresh limestone beneath.
Extraordinary and a world exclusive.
Roger
and I visited a school where the roofs fell in and killed hundreds of
children, and we saw thousands of refugees camping under tarpaulins
perched on the edge of the mountain. In the higher regions it was
beginning to snow. Thousands of refugees died in the cold that winter.
To watch video click here.
|